It has been two weeks in Nica now and there are so many different things to tell that it is hard to find a beginning. I will start with describing a typical morning. Usually I wake up between 4:30 and 6:30, depending on the tides. For some reason it has been really easy to do that. For the last year I was struggling to get up before 10am, so this is a positive surprise for me. The motivation of finding epic waves almost every morning is probably a big factor. It's always clean and offshore in the morning and when there is swell, you will have good waves. Guaranteed.
Another thing is the warmth. It is warm all day, every day. The morning is the coolest time of the day and therefore especially enjoyable. Once the clock hit's 9/10am it starts getting really hot and at midday I look much like a sweaty pig. The upside to this is that the water temperature around here is amazingly perfect. It's even a bit warmer than in Greece for example. You need no wetsuit and can just jump in the water at any time.
After a cup of tea, Alex and me drive to the best spot around the area. Alex is the local Nica kid that works with Thunderbomb Surfcamp. He is an amazing surfer and also a really nice guy, who knows the area better than anybody else. He takes us to a spot called ............, that is still somewhat secret. It's a heavily barreling beach break similar to Supertubos or Hossegor. That said, I definitely have taken more beatings than actually made barrels. Snuck in a couple but mostly I got the lip to the head or some other kook mistake :D. Fortunately I have lots of time to improve over the next two month.
To get to the spot, we take the 4x4 and maneuver on offroads through the jungle. Well, I guess there is no other option because there are only offroads around here. Once we arrive to the beach we are greeted by a million dogs that race the car. We stay at the beach all morning until about 9/10 am. I mostly split my time 50/50 for shooting and surfing. It is super nice because nobody tells me when to shoot or when to surf. I am quite free to arrange my time and if I don't want to shoot I don't have to.
Recently I have done some filming in the water and the footage is amazing. As much as I love surfing, it really gives me joy and pleasure to be shooting in the water. It's a nice feeling to get a beautiful wave on camera because they are sooooo powerful and majestic. You have to sit right in that critical spot and once the wave breaks and the lip starts pounding the sand.......OMG......the sound is just addicting. I will try to record that for you but imagine it somehow like "bbbbuchhchhchchchchchch", with a grindig and deep "ch".
Ok, that's enough reading for now but it's just 10am, so there is much more to tell. To see where it all started, click here.
Time to go surfing.